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  1. The following are FAQ from the SJ24 Nanimo site http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Shore/3566/index.html
  2. Topics:
  3. Racing Crew size & position
  4. Sail position
  5. Deck Leaks
  6. Backwind the Main
  7. Set sails in heavy / light air
  8. Death Rolling
  9. Racing / jib size
  10. Q Racing Crew size & position
  11. Greetings SJ sailors, I race a 1979/80 SJ and would like to know a couple of things. First,how much of a penalty is normal for use of an oversized sail in club racing? Last year I was spanked constantly by five J24s and a J30. This year I use my 170 and a spinnaker of dimension LL 29.9ft and SMW 18.9ft. Finished third after correction in funky light to moderate air last race. I have 163,153 racing sails and a 120 spike. I`m rated at 228 now but will probably be hassled by the J24s if this trend continues-crew and boat capable of better performance.
  12. Second, is it just me or does putting a huge amount of ballast forward add considerably to boat speed? I have a crew of four with me at about 190 lbs, two guys at 225+ and one guy about 170 with three bodies aft and a big guy forward under motor (6 hp) we averaged about 2.8 knts. With all hands sitting on bow pulpit (one seriously strained piece of tubing at this point) except me boat speed averaged 4.3 kts. Is this just motor angle or what? Tried out this theory last race and did well. Coincidence?
  13. Thanks,
  14. Tom S.
  15. A The sail penalty is the sail penalty. Take what ever penalty they give you and carry at least the 163. The 170 is better if not overpowered. Dump some of the crew!! You have too much weight on the boat to be competitive! On a broad reach or going down wind, the boat likes weight slightly forward, maybe one person at the mast or slightly in front. everyone on the bow is hokey! We will never be in the same class as a J30. Give it up. they need to split classes. Sail well and you can beat J24's often enough to keep you happy. - Norman Porter
  16. Your PHRF rating should be managed by your local PHRF handicapper, NOT your competitors. They can also advise you of the penalty added for using oversized sails (usually 3 to 6 sec/mi per sail in inventory). In Puget Sound, a San Juan rates 228 with class legal sails of #1 at 163% of a 9.5' J, a Spinnaker of SL=29'7.5" SMW=17'1.25". Choosing to exceed either of these measurements, or that of your mainsail, could result in your rating being lowered.
  17. A Sail position
  18. We've found that we go fastest upwind with ALL of our crew weight between the forward winches and the shrouds, with everyone on the rail to flatten the boat as the wind builds.
  19. Downwind weight positioning depends upon wind and water conditions. In light winds, we roll the boat to leeward to keep the chute open and full; we will even put one or two crew inside the cabin, directly on the keel to help boatspeed. As the wind gets to the 6 to 12kts range, we move crew forward to stand the boat on its nose and roll it to windward to project the maximum main surface area and to pull the chute to windward of the headstay. This allows us to sail a deeper angle with speed and maximize VMG. As the winds build, we have tweakers to choke the corners of the chute down and begin moving crew to the back of the boat in order to hold the rudder in the water. We will also put on backstay to reduce mast pumping and oscillations which can lead to the famous "San Juan Death Roll" common to IOR designs, but accentuated on the SJ because it's shortwaterline length.
  20. Mark Rider

    21.  

    Q Deck Leaks

  21. Hi SJ24 owners;
  22. My boat has a wicked leak at the deck/hull joint underneath the toe rail in the area of the galley. A good rainstorm will fill the bowls sitting on the shelf . What is the proper way to fix this? How major a job is it to remove the toe rail and rebed it? Does anyone else have this problem?
  23. I'm also refinishing the interior bright work. What finish have people used?
  24. Thanks for any advise you may have.
  25. Bruce Burgess, Royston BC
  26. A Jeremy Dixon Responds: I used a dremel to clear out as much as possible, then used thickenedepoxy to seal, then 3M 3200 for the crack between.I still have problems with some screw holes, but don't have any problems will the hull to deck....
  27. Mark Rider responds: Last summer, I chose to repair my toe rail, based upon the experience and advise of Erin Bookey, owner of Separator. She recommended using a sharp tool to remove as much of the original sealant from between the deck and toe rail as possible.
  28. Next, thoroughly clean the exposed surface and wipe with a fiberglass cleaner/solvent. Place lines of masking tape to either side of the bead you will belaying down to ensure the line of sealant will appear smooth.
  29. Then use a flexible, UV resistant sealant, I chose SikkaFlex. Place a single, continuous bead along the full length of the toe rail joint. Run your (latex gloved)finger along the top of the bead to smooth it over.
  30. Carefully remove the masking tape before the sealing compound has fully set. It pays to have a large bucket with a trash bag in it alongside to place segments of masking tape because they're messy.
  31. That seems to have resolved approximately 98% of rainfall leakage, which is acceptable to me. And, being in Seattle, I'd qualify myself as pretty much a rainfall leakage expert. If I wanted to improve the seal further, I'd do the same thing to the toe rail / deck joint so I didn't take in water from waves or laying the toe rail into the water in a blow. The last fix I've considered for this has been to use some stuff called "Creeping Crack Cure." I would back out each of the screws in the toe rail joint a few turns, then add a couple of drops along the base of each screw, in turn, and then tighten them back down. This job would be greatly facilitated by having someone below to hold the threaded backing clips in place while tightening the screws down. If anyone choose to try this technique before I do, please update us as to the results.
  32. That about does it for sealing toe rails from my perspective. Perhaps others have additional experiences and ideas on the subject. Let me reiterate also, that if you have a mind to pull the toe rails off, prep the surface, rebed and reattach them to your boat; more power to you! Your work will likely last longer, and hopefully look more professional than my method.
  33. One last trick, I've been told to use, but haven't tried is to use plumber's sealing wax from the inside on a spot by spot basis to stop small leaks. But better to seal from where the leak starts rather than where it finishes..
  34. Good luck and happy sailing! Mark Rider :-)

  35. Q Backwind the Main
  36. I have a problem with my main when close-hauled. If I have the jib sheeted in, it always back winds the main even with the main sheeted in at much as possible. The only way to get the main to set right, is to pull the boom to weather. I learned to sail on dinghies and I was always told never to bring the boom past the center line of the boat. Those boats, though, had small jibs.
  37. Any thoughts?
  38. Thank you.
  39. Brian Mulligan
  40. Boru (sail # 59432)
  41. Seattle, WA
  42. A Mark Rider responds: Hi Brian, If you are truly backwinding your main, it can be caused by a number of factors, depending upon wind velocity, headsail size, and sail trim. Depending upon the age and condition (and the actual sail size), you may not be getting a constant curve to the body of the genoa. As for the main position on the traveller, boom position is less important than keeping the top batten parallel with the boom and on centerline. So, sometimes, it is necessary to travel up some.
  43. It may be because your genoa lead position is too far aft in light to medium air. Some SJ 24 sailors have a tendency to oversheet their genoa, causing the back half to become very flat.
  44. The flatness of your main may be contributing to the problem; adding halyard tension to your mainsail, and backstay tension as the breeze builds will help in adjusting the shape of, and slot between the genoa and mainsail.
  45. Additionally, if you are referring to what happens as the breeze builds,you will actually want to travel the main down to allow air to spill off and let the boat stand up when overpowered. You will also want to add twist to the genoa by moving the lead cars back and easing the sheet.
  46. Hope this helps. Come out and sail with the Seattle fleet. We'll teach you how to go fast (but not too fast!).
  47. Mark Rider
  48. SJ 24 "Skamokawa
  49. A
  50. I wish my main backwinded!!! Its cut too flat.Backwind occurs and is not necessarily bad. If you eliminate all of it,you are probably losing drive. Check your leech .This boat needs a lot of main sheet tension going to weather. (I use the vang to get the desired tension). Try a little flattening reef and correct the draft with the cunningham.
  51. Norman
  52. John Coutret responds: Brian,You might try moving your jib leads aft on the track. This will put twist in the jib which will allow the leech to open up. This will spill the air from the top of your jib before it get pushed into the back of the main. My guess is that this happens in moderate to heavy air (not in light air). By twisting the jib, you will also depower the boat and have less heel. If the wind builds too much, switch to a smaller headsail.
  53. John Coutret
  54. SJ24 818 Blue Moon

  55. Q
  56. I own a 1978 24. My concern is it is really hard telling how I am sailing this boat because I'm the only one in this area with one. I only sail against J22 and J24s. Some of the fleet of 22s I consistently beat. The people that race all from all over the state are hard to beat. The night races I usually do good in Top 4 of the crowd usually 10 to 15 boats. The wind is usually light at night and this is when I can make this boat go.
  57. The troubles I have are to windward on windy night or day races. I mostly sail with a Mylar 150 and I hope to replace my main with the same or a updated one (See my ad on the "FOR SAIL PAGE"). I know my main is blown out but I use flattening reefs to flatten it out. This trick I started last season and seemed to work great. I am fairly sure the boat should sail with the 22 but I do not know any one that I can discuss this with. After finding this sight I'm hoping that I can learn from all of you on the west coast to help me over here.
  58. I suspect I am over powering the boat in heavy air but the night races are very short and I race alone or with my wife and sail swapping cannot be done . My sister races both J24s and a ultimate 20, I do as much with her but it's very hard due to the speeds of these two boats. She just raced in the worlds down in Tampa in Feb. This tells you what I am up against when I sail against her and her crew.
  59. From what I have read going to a electric motor on boat is good step and changing the main of coarse. It sounds like the mast should be raked back a lot. Do you install a wedge under the front of the step or grind it down a bit? My sail # is 902 I will check to see what the hull # is but I suspect it might be the same. Any help will be great. We won our first race 2 seasons ago and a 2nd was the best we did last year. We did great in a two day regatta but it was a drifting match and that seems to be what we do best together. Hopefully some of you have raced against some of these boats I have talked about and can help a me out.
  60. THANKS,
  61. GEORGE WARREN
  62. Boothbay Hbr. Maine
  63. Q Set sails in heavy / light air
  64. Normal Porter Responds
  65. I've raced a SJ24 for many years, pretty successfully in PHRF, without the benefit of other SJ24's around me. Sounds to me like you are doing well!!! The rating spread between yourself and the J24 (SEE BELOW - Ed) is such that over all you will not be competitive against them if they are well sailed, unless racing PHRF time-on-time instead of time-on-distance. Their SA/DISP ratios also give you a large cross to bear.
  66. In lighter air you absolutely have to carry the largest jib possible without being over powered. The boat is a slug with a 150 up in light air. Put up a 163 and she will take off. In winds under 7-8 knots, the boat will hang in there with the j's and beat a lot of them to weather, although they seem to have a more efficient keel. Crack off your sheets and go for speed when it lightens up. Look at your main leach tension and adjust vang and main sheet to obtain the right curve and location of the upper batten. If you are using the old over the cabin traveler, its hard to get adequate leech tension when the wind is up. I threw mine away and went to an end of boom traveler in the cockpit. Its much easier to work with. I usually set the vang and play the main with the main sheet (In heavy air).
  67. Above 10 knots or so, the J24 has waterline on you and will beat you unless sailed poorly. The J22 is an easier target, because of its shorter waterline, but will surf readily, so nothings a gimme.
  68. When it blows 18-20+, put up the smallest jib you have 90-100%, flatten and/or reef the main and feather and "carve" the boat to weather and you will come into your own again. Beat them to weather, then hang on on the reachs.
  69. In light air, watch your draft location in the jib, adjust halyard tension with wind velocity changes, don't get too narrow a groove. Going for speed, not pointing in most cases will pay off. Do not pinch!
  70. Blocking the mast should not be necessary. Do you have a backstay adjuster? It really helps.
  71. Check your shroud tensions and adjust as advised by the SJ guys. Mine are pretty dinghy loose and it works for me.
  72. I currently race against several national champions and a Catalina 27 national champion that is incredibly fast, so I have my "pacers'.
  73. Good luck and remember, the boat is a compromise designed for sales,accomodations and transport, not for all out speed.
  74. A
  75. Mark Rider Responds...
  76. Hi George,
  77. In my experience, The boats mentioned below typically rate the following under PHRF:
  78. San Juan 24 231
  79. San Juan 24 211 with class illegal 170
  80. J 22 216
  81. J 24 186
  82. Ultimate 20 157
  83. These ratings are dependent upon a boat being rigged and sailed in accordance with its one-design class rules. As you can see, the oldest design, the SJ 24, rates the slowest, while the newest, an Ultimate 20, rates the fastest.
  84. Chuck Skewes, the 1999 SJ 24 NACA Champion, provided an excellent discussion of how he prepared the boat he used for the North American Championship regatta, in an interview in the most recent edition of the class association newsletter, Class Action. This is sent to all registered members of the San Juan 24 Class Association.
  85. In brief, the San Juan 24 is allowed a maximum Jib size of 163% of the "J" measurement under the rule. Fresh sails and a clean, smooth bottom will work wonders in providing boatspeed. There are additional tweaks and rigging adjustments which can help, also. The SJ 24 performs best, according to her rating in winds between 5 and 10 knots. This is due to the narrow hull shape. The SJ 24 is required under the rules to race with a gas outboard rating a minimum of 4 bhp mounted on the transom while racing. It is also reqired to carry a minimum of 3 gallons of gasoline in an external tank.
  86. Mast rake is adjusted by setting the length of the forestay and tension in the backstay. The babystay is used to create pre-bend in the mast. It is most essential to make certain the mast is rigged straight and centered side to side. Headstay tension and mast rake is managed using an adjustable backstay.
  87. Mark Rider SJ 24 "Skamokawa" Hull # 890
  88. A Death Rolling
  89. Bill Sims responds...
  90. George,
  91. As you've already heard and experienced, the SJ24 is very competitive in light air. It also can do well in heavy air, as long as you avoid going dead downwind with the spinnaker--boat is bad about death-rolling.... I've found that the SJ24 is competitive with the J24 to weather in light to medium-light conditions, and in fact seems to often point higher. The real advantage to the J24 seems to be after rounding the weather mark. I believe this is because the J24 has a flatter stern. Certainly isn't because of the spinnaker, as the SJ's is 100 sq. ft. bigger. As the ratings show, overall the J24 should be faster than you.

  92. Racing / jib size

  93. Just for the record, when using the 170% headsail (not allowed in SJ24 one-design racing) the SJ24 rates 216. And goes great in light air! You need a really good lookout at the start and later up the leg watching for boats crossing you on starboard. As you've likely found, the boom will come down so far when sheeted in hard that the main sheet is nearly two-blocked.
  94. I haven't sailed the J22, but sailed the J24 quite a bit about 10 years ago, just before buying the SJ24. You can tell which one I preferred by what I bought!
  95. Bill Sims - CaptWSims@aol.com