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(Subject: FAQ: rec.boats.paddle Whitewater Paddling FAQ)
Whitewater paddling is a dangerous and potentially fatal sport. This document is meant to familiarize the reader with the sport, and could never replace proper training and caution. Get educated, get equipped, get trained, and THEN get on the river. It's more fun, and better for you and everyone around you.
The following topics are addressed
1) Why does this FAQ exist?
2) What is whitewater?
2.1) What is an eddy?
2.2) What is a wave?
2.3) What is a hole?
2.4) What other features will I see on a river?
3) What are the dangers of whitewater paddling?
3.1) How to swim in whitewater
3.2) Foot entrapment
3.3) Strainers
3.4) Undercuts
3.5) Holes
3.6) Pins
3.7) Hypothermia
3.8) Man-made Dangers
3.9) Whitewater Safety and Rescue Resources
4) Why would anyone paddle whitewater?
4.1) River running
4.2) Rapid running
4.3) Surfing and playing
4.3.1) Front/Back Surf
4.3.2) Side Surf
4.3.3) Enders/Pirouettes
4.3.4) Squirting
4.3.5) Advanced moves
5) What types of boats are appropriate for whitewater?
5.1) Kayaks
5.1.1) Creek Boats
5.1.2) Play Boats
5.1.3) Squirt Boats
5.1.4) Tandem Kayaks
5.1.5) Inflatable Kayaks
5.1.6) Sit-On-Top Kayaks
5.2) Canoes
5.2.1) C1 (1-person closed canoe)
5.2.2) OC1 (1-person open canoe)
5.2.3) OC2 or Tandem Canoe (2-person open canoe)
5.2.4) Inflatable Canoes
5.3) Rafts
5.3.1) Paddle Rafts
5.3.2) Oar Rafts
5.3.3) Catarafts
6) What other equipment is necessary or useful?
6.1) Clothing/[Wet/Dry]Suits
6.2) Flotation
6.3) Helmet
6.4) Insulation/Clothing
6.5) Throw Rope
6.6) Knife
6.7) Whistle
7) What about... (actual FAQs)
7.1) Contacts
7.2) Nose clips
7.3) On-side versus Off-side roll
7.4) Where can I find info to learn how to roll?
7.5) Why do some people call a Kayak a Canoe?
7.6) What is boat outfitting? How do I do it?
7.7) Which boat should I buy?
7.8) How can I ship a boat cheaply?
7.9) Can I fly with my kayak?
7.10) Where can I find river levels online?
7.11) What is 303, and can I use Armorall instead?
7.12) Who has right of way? River and Ocean surfing etiquette
7.13) Where do I keep my beer/wine/liquor?
8) Questions pertaining to rec.boats.paddle...
8.1) Is r.b.p. only a whitewater group?
8.2) Are commercial posts okay?
8.3) Are binary posts okay?
8.4) What's the deal with sponsons?
8.5) Who is this Scott Weiser guy?
8.6) I missed the post on...
8.7) Yes, but WHICH 'Black River...'
8.8) What is this rec.boats.kayak newsgroup/How about splitting the group?
8.9) What other FAQs are available?
9) Credits
1) Why does this FAQ exist?
rec.boats.paddle has a high volume of traffic pertaining to whitewater paddling. When I started reading it a few years ago, I looked far and wide for a whitewater FAQ and didn't find one. After almost three years on the newsgroup, I decided that enough questions repeated to make a FAQ worthwhile. Also, I'd like to hope this FAQ helps people whet their interest for whitewater paddling, because it is a sport that gives me great joy, and I'd love to share that.
Technically this is part FAQ and part FUQ -- Frequently Unasked Questions. It tries to answer the questions that a newcomer doesn't know or doesn't think to ask, as well as covering issues that come up repeatedly. It doesn't handle some questions that require a master thesis -- such as, "Which boat is better, X or Y?"
2) What is whitewater?
Whitewater refers to moving bodies of water like rivers, streams,
and brooks. The current interacts with the stream bed and river
features (rocks, sudden drops, incline or gradient) to form
interesting and useful water features like eddies, waves, holes,
etc. Because such quick-moving water often becomes bubbly and
aerated as it frolics along the river bed, it is referred to as
"white" water (the bubbles, of course, turning the water white).
2.1) What is an eddy?
An eddy is formed when fast-moving water rushes past an obstruction, like a rock or a section of riverbank which juts out. The water is pushed past the obstruction by the current, and the space behind the obstruction is not immediately filled with water. As a result, the water slowly works its way behind the obstruction further and further downstream, and then flows upstream to fill the area just behind the obstruction. The eddy is often 1) slower moving water than the current and 2) pushes upstream current rather than downstream.
An eddy is useful for two reasons: firstly, it is often a
calm spot in the midst of the chaotic river, and as such is a
wonderful place for a paddler to stop, get their bearings, take a
drink, decide what to do next. Secondly, the eddy line (the
place where the current pushing downstream meets the eddy water
moving upstream) can be used to turn a boat around on half a dime
or to attempt squirt moves (more on this later).
2.2) What is a wave?
A wave is a section of water which rises to a peak and then falls down. Everyone is familiar with waves on the ocean, where a bump (the wave) rolls along, eventually crashing onto a beach somewhere. In a river, a wave is formed by moving water being jumbled by an underwater rock or sudden obstacle. A river wave differs from an ocean wave in that the water moves and the wave stays in one spot on the river, while the water stays still and the wave moves along on the ocean.
[The technical description of what forms a wave needs improvement]
A river wave can be surfed, just as surfers ride ocean waves.
Surfing is the act of balancing a boat on the upstream face of a
wave, where the water pushes the boat downstream and gravity
pulls the boat forward into the trough of the wave. The boat
sits still with respect to the sides of the river, but the water
rushes underneath the boat and makes for a dynamic ride!
2.3) What is a hole?
A souse hole, or a hole for short, is a place where the current pushes the water over a rock or other underwater obstacle. Other names for it include stopper or hydraulic. The water crashes downward after passing the obstacle. If the water crashes down with enough force, it forms a depression on the surface, which the water surrounding the "hole" will rush in to fill, subsequently being forced down by more water crashing down. Put another way, at a hole, water is being forced down toward the stream bed rather than downriver, and does not continue downstream until it is below the surface. Sometimes it surfaces just to be pulled back in again, which is called recirculation. Think of it as a black hole in the current, where the flow is disturbed and counteracted by the obstacle.
[again, description could be improved]
Holes can be dangerous, but they can also be fun, too. They can
be dangerous because they can hold on to and recirculate any
object (wood, boat or paddler) that falls into them, since the
current is temporarily suspended in a hole. Since the water is
chaotic, it can be hard to keep your boat upright in a hole
(doing so is sometimes called Side Surfing, and is a fun thing to
do). The danger a hole represents depends on its size, angle,
force, location, and other factors. A simple rule is: If you
can't tell a dangerous hole from a fun hole, don't go into any
hole.
2.4) What other features will I see on a river?
'Rapids' is an area where swift current meets steep gradient or other stream bed features and forms a set of waves, holes, and eddies. 'Waterfalls' are places where the water free falls for a significant distance before becoming river again. A 'Drop' is the same as a 'Rapid' for some people, more like a very small waterfall for others, and used to describe a sudden gradient change for others.
[These are terms as I see them. I expect I'm open to much correction here; please do so]
Non-water features like strainers and undercuts are discussed in
section 3.
3) What are the dangers of whitewater paddling?
Most people don't realize that moving water is dangerous. It is very easy to swim across a pool, but if you have current pushing you along, rocks and strainers coming up, and waves and holes to throw you around, it gets a little harder ;>. I don't want to scare anybody, but understanding the dangers of whitewater is the most important thing a paddler can learn. See the disclaimer at the top of this posting, if you haven't already.
Responsible paddling means not paddling alone (three boats is
a good rule of thumb I've heard), paddling with proper and
reliable equipment, and using your best judgment to avoid rivers
and rapids which are beyond your skill level. A solid roll is
important for whitewater paddling, as well. These are ways of
mitigating the dangers of whitewater paddling.
3.1) How to swim in whitewater
Walbridge and Sundmacher, in "Whitewater Rescue Manual," separate swimming into two categories: defensive swimming and aggressive swimming. Defensive swimming entails floating on your back, feet downriver, using your arms for minimal course correction and waiting until an opportunity to attain an eddy or other form of safety arises. This is especially good in water which is shallow or rocky enough to bump the swimmer, but too swift for standing, because if you're going to scrape over a rock better to do it with your well-padded buttocks. Keeping your feet downstream allows you to push off rocks instead of butting heads with them. If you're swimming next to your boat, make sure the boat is also downstream of your body, because if you get pinned between your boat and a rock, you can get seriously hurt or killed.
Aggressive swimming entails expending energy as you actively swim, usually toward an eddy, raft, throw line, or other form of safety. If the water is deep enough, rolling over onto your stomach will allow a stronger stroke. Swimming pointed upstream allows you to ferry just as a boat would. When rolling from back to front or vice versa, roll laterally, don't go head over heels, or you'll push your feet down and risk foot entrapment.
In general, the situation dictates how you should swim. In heavy water with little hope of catching an eddy, a defensive swim allows you to conserve your energy for when it will be useful. In shallow water where there is danger of impact injuries or foot entrapment, defensive swimming lets you keep most of your body safe. But when an opportunity for getting off the river presents itself, aggressive swimming is often the only way to take advantage of the opportunity.
There are two special cases: steep drops and strainers.
If you are going over a steep drop with your body stretched out
(as for defensive or aggressive swimming), you risk having your
feet catch on the bottom as you are driven down into the pool
below, leading to foot entrapment. If you are going over a drop,
curl up into a cannonball position until you are past it -- you
are more likely to hit things, but less likely to get stuck. For
strainers, see section 3.3.
3.2) Foot entrapment
Foot entrapment describes what can happen if a person stand up in moving water. If their foot sets down between two rocks or in a crevice, and the current pushes them off their feet, then there is a good chance their foot will become wedged and they will be held underwater by the current. Ever stood up in the surf at the ocean and been tossed around by a wave? Moving water is capable of exerting tremendous force, more than most people realize.
To avoid foot entrapment, the general rule is to never, ever
stand up in moving water. If you end up swimming in
whitewater, swim as described in section 3.1, with your feet
up and away from the bottom. Work your way to shore this
way, and crawl onto dry land. Some people advise never
standing up in water deeper than your knees, because water that
deep or less is shallow enough that you could basically do a
pushup and hold it to keep your head out of the water. I still
prefer crawling, personally. Don't be fooled into thinking that
the water isn't deep enough to push you over if it is below your
waist -- most swimming situations leave the swimmer over-exerted,
shocked by cold, and disoriented, and most swimmers I've seen are
unsteady on their feet when they first get out of the water.
I often trip on dry land after crawling out ;>.
3.3) Strainers
A strainer is anything sticking into our out of the river which stops solid objects but lets water through. Think of it like a pasta strainer. A tree with branches that has tipped into the river, saplings growing upward that are partly submerged, and rebar sticking out of concrete are three types of strainer. They are very dangerous because if a boat or a swimmer is pushed up against them by the current, they will be pinned against the strainer by the current and often submerged by water rushing over them.
The best way to deal with strainers is avoid them, period. They have no positive or beneficial aspects, so there is no reason to go near one as there is with holes. Whether you are in a boat or swimming, you should do anything you can to avoid hitting the strainer.
_Whitewater Rescue Manual_ (see section 3.9) suggests that, if you are swimming and hitting a strainer is unavoidable, you should aggressively swim forward it on your stomach, and as you reach it grab it and try to climb up it. Because you're swimming with the current, the current won't be pushing you against the strainer immediately, so you can get a second or two to climb before the water starts to pin you. The goal here is to either climb up and over/off of the strainer, or to attain a tenable position with your head out of the water which will give your buddies time to come to your aid. I ended up on a strainer of saplings once, and was able to get to a relatively secure position until a commercial raft could swing by and give me a chance to jump aboard. It should be stressed, however, that strainers are Major Badness, and you should do everything you can to avoid it before using this technique.
I've been told that UK and European guidebooks have stopped
recommending this method because strainers are so dangerous that
swimmers are better off not even thinking they have a chance in a
strainer, and therefore will be more careful to avoid them. I
would love to see discussion of this point on the newsgroup.
3.4) Undercuts
Water, as mentioned before, has a lot more force than people sometimes think. It carved the Grand Canyon out. On a smaller scale, it can easily wear away many softer rocks (sandstone, say, as opposed to granite). When you have a rock or a rock wall that extends above the water, sometimes the rock is worn away underneath the water. You end up with an overhang of sorts; think of a rock shaped like a mushroom, with the water submerging the stem so all you see is the cap. When the current hits this rock, it pushes down to flow underneath the stone. If a boat or a swimmer hits the rock, the same thing is likely to happen, but the chance of getting stuck underwater is very, very high. For this reason, undercut rocks should be avoided.
Undercut rocks tend to look much like normal rocks, so there's no easy way to pick them out from the crowd. One signal to look out for is a rock with no pillow breaking on the upstream face; that can indicate that the water if just flowing on underneath the rock. Some undercuts still have pillows, though, so this can't be relied upon. The best bet is to use guidebooks and local knowledge to avoid undercuts.
Undercuts tend to be more common in areas with softer rock. For example, the New England region of the US tends to have fewer undercuts because the stone is generally of the harder variety; there isn't much sandstone in New England at all. The South Eastern region of the United States tends to have more sandstone and other "softer" rocks, and undercuts are more common there.
3.5) Holes
Holes, as discussed in 2.3, act as black holes in the current, sucking surrounding water and objects in and recirculating them. When that object is a person, recirculation can be a very bad thing, because they don't get so many chances to breathe.
Some people recommend curling up into a ball and letting your body being flushed out of the bottom of the hole, to resurface downstream and out of the hole. I have heard it suggested that removing your life jacket to make this easier is an option if you can't seem to flush out, but have my reservations about this (among other things, I don't think it is going to be easy to undo however many straps and get out while being recirculated in a washing machine). One way to get out is to have a buddy toss a throw rope in, grab onto it, and get pulled on out; there is some contention over this method, because ropes can be caught on rocks in holes and serve to further ensnare the swimmer. A throw rope thrown into a hole should be clean (no knots or tangles) and the thrower should probably not throw slack rope if at all possible. If you can work your way to the corners of a hole, you might be able to reach out into the current and get pulled out. [This section needs help -- my hole experience is limited]
3.6) Pins
A pin is what happens when a boat is pushed up against some obstacle or obstacles and held there by the current, sometimes trapping the boater as well. A pin can happen when the center of the boat broaches sideways on a rock and the ends are caught by the current, or when each end is caught on a rock and the current exerts force on the middle of the boat. If your boat is pinned, the faster you act to get off the better; once water starts piling up on your boat, movement becomes much harder. In general, lean toward any rock you are broached on and rock or use your paddle to pry yourself off of it.
3.7) Hypothermia
Hypothermia is what happens when a body loses too much heat. There are plenty of wonderful technical descriptions that you can read elsewhere, but simply put, as your body gets colder it and your brain get sluggish, confused, and eventually inoperable. At some point, your body is too cold to warm itself back up without outside help. Once your body temperature drops too much, you die.
Whitewater paddling is a potentially wonderful way to get hypothermia. Firstly, water is a much more efficient conductor of heat than air, so running water over your body will drain it of heat faster than running air over your body. Secondly, paddling is often done in the fall, winter, and spring, when a) there is a lot of rain, b) there is a lot of snowmelt, and c) there aren't many trees leaves to drink up the water. As a result, paddling water is often cold water.
The best way to avoid hypothermia is to dress properly, have fuel in your body, and have warm or dry clothing ready to change into once you're off the water.
One quick note: Cotton kills. Cotton, which blue jeans are made out of among other clothing items, has almost NO insulating properties once it is wet. It will do you NO GOOD AT ALL when wet. Don't wear it when paddling.
Dressing properly means, in many cases, a wetsuit or a drysuit. These are discussed in section 6.1 below. The rule of thumb is that when water temperature plus air temperature is less than 100 degrees F., a wetsuit or better is required (for example, 40 degree water + 55 degree air temps is 95 degrees; wear a wetsuit).
Again, I'm not going to extensively discuss hypothermia here.
There are a lot of more authoritative sources, and I'll link to
them here when I track them down. I advise anyone reading this
to educate themselves on hypothermia.
3.8) Man-made Dangers
Some of the most dangerous features you can find on the river were put there by man, not by nature. Barbed wire fences sometimes straddle streams to keep the cows in. Low head dams usually create suprisingly deadly hydraulics. Drainage culverts were not designed with people climbing out in mind.
A lot of the danger has to do with man's tendency toward neatness. A low head dam is a dam where the water pours over the top of a river-wide wall. These dams are almost always designed to be straight as a ruler, which results in a perfectly uniform hydraulic, with the water on the surface flowing back upstream all along the width of the dam. That's the key: there are no channels on the side where some of the water flows downstream! That means no escape channels for someone who gets stuck sidesurfing one of these hydraulics.
It is the regularity, not the size, that makes a low head dam a killer. A dam with a 1-foot drop can, and has, killed people.
Drainage culverts and other structures where engineers have built cement walls are also dangerous. The walls of these channels, even if not vertical, are very smooth and uniform - nothing sticks out to create an eddy. That means that ALL the water flows smoothly and swiftly downstream. Very good from a drainage engineers point of view, not so good from the point of view of the person being swept downstream with no chance to climb out.
Also beware pipes or other obstructions, many of which can act as strainers.
3.9) Whitewater Safety and Rescue Resources
Obviously, this FAQ isn't able to cover many issues in the detail they deserve, and the safety and rescue issues especially. I recommend the following resources for anyone who paddles whitewater:
_River Rescue: A Manual For Whitewater Safety_ by Les Bechdel and Slim Ray. 3rd Edition Paperback published by Appalachian Mountain Club, April 1997 ISBN 1878239554 See http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ISBN%3D1878239554/
_Whitewater Rescue Manual: New Techniques for Canoeists, Kayakers, and Rafters_ by Charles Walbridge and Wayne A. Sundmacher SR. Paperback published by McGraw-Hill, September 1995 ISBN 0070677905 See http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ISBN%3D0070677905/
American Whitewater Affiliation (AWA) Web Site
Many good articles, plus pointers to their waterproof safety cards.
See http://www.awa.org/ and http://www.awa.org/awa/safety/
4) Why would anyone paddle whitewater?
After all those descriptions of why paddling is dangerous, you
might be wondering "Why would anyone want to paddle whitewater?"
The short answer is, it is fun. It's a blast. It's a kick. I
like to think of it as sledding on top of an avalanche -- not
only are you flying downhill, but the hill is flying underneath
you! Whitewater gives you a chance to take a boat out on a river
that is almost always far, far stronger than you, and lets you
use the forces of the river to your advantage. You get the
satisfaction of knowing what water will do, how it will affect
your boat, and what you can do to cause a beneficial or fun
effect.
4.1) River running
The simplest thing a whitewater paddler does is run a river.
That is to say, they put in at one point, they paddle downstream
for a while, and they get out. Along the way, they must look at
and understand what the river is doing, avoid dangers, pull into
eddies for a rest, and control their boat. Often, they may be
surrounded by wonderful scenery as they do so.
4.2) Rapid running
The next challenge a paddler will face is running rapids.
That is to say, at some point, the river will get steeper,
require more maneuvering, become more chaotic and forceful, and
require greater levels of boat control and paddling ability.
Sort of like a roller coaster, but you have to know what you are
doing.
4.3) Surfing and playing
Once a paddler is capable of getting from the start to the
end of the river without problems, the fun begins. Once you know
how to paddle past the waves, holes and obstacles of a river, you
can begin learning to play in them.
4.3.1) Front/Back Surf
A Front or Back surf involves paddling your boat onto the
upstream face of a wave, and staying there for a while. The
water tries to push you back off the wave, and gravity pulls your
boat down and forward to the trough of the wave. Balancing these
forces with paddle strokes and rudders is how you surf.
A front surf simply implies that your bow is facing upstream. A
back surf implies that your stern is facing upstream, i.e., you
are surfing backwards. The front surf is easier because you can
see what you are doing and control the boat more easily...
4.3.2) Side Surf
A side surf involves paddling into a hole and balancing,
perpendicular to the current, along the edge of the hole where
the water drops down into the hole. The side of the boat that
touches the upstream water must be lifted up to counter the force
of the water pushing that edge down, or the boat will flip.
Essentially, it is a precarious balance point where the boat is
tossed around by the chaotic and contrary water currents.
4.3.3) Enders/Pirouettes
Sometimes water will pour heavily next to a rock or between
two rocks, sometimes forming a hole, and sometimes not. If there
is enough water in front of and below the place this water falls
down, a paddler can paddle up into it and bury the bow of their
boat under the water. The water forces the bow down, and the
boat rises to a vertical position. The boat will then come
spitting out of the water as buoyancy reasserts itself. This is
called an "ender" because the boat stands on end. If the
boater uses their paddle to spin the boat while it is vertical,
then it is called a "pirouette." Landing upside down is always
an option when trying one of these moves ;>. Vertical moves are
a kick because the water flips your boat up and spits it out!
You can do an ender or pirouette with the stern of your boat
instead of the bow, although they are harder.
4.3.4) Squirting
Squirting involves pushing one end of your boat under the
water, using the current to keep it there, push it around, and
maybe spin it. Some kayaks with a low volume stern (the New Wave
Sleek and the Dagger RPM are two such) can do stern squirts
easily, using an eddy line. There are boats dedicated to squirt
moves which are low volume (i.e., smaller boat for same size
person; usually very thin from top to bottom so they cut under
the water more easily). See section 5.1.3 fore more on
squirt boats.
4.3.5) Advanced moves
There is a slew of advanced moves -- spins, whip-it,
McTwists, cartwheels, etc. Most of them involve keeping one end
of your boat in a hole and sticking the other end of the boat in
the current to spin the boat around, sometimes while horizontal,
sometimes more vertical. I'm not going to go into huge detail
here; I don't know enough, and it's changing every day ;>.
Maybe someone will put together a Rodeo FAQ (whitewater rodeo is
a competition where paddlers take a wave or a hole and show off
their stuff)
5) What types of boats are appropriate for whitewater?
Kayaks, canoes and rafts are commonly used for whitewater
paddling.
5.1) Kayaks
A kayak is a small boat, having only one opening where the
person sits, and is paddled with a two-bladed paddle. A kayaker
sits on his butt with his legs stretched forward to the bow of
the kayak, and his knees snugly nestled against the underside of
the deck. A "spray skirt" is a neoprene garment which fits
snugly around the kayakers waist and torso, then flares out to
fit snugly around the rim of the cockpit, keeping water out of
the boat. A "spray skirt" may also be called a "spray deck",
and may be made out of nylon instead of neoprene (or a mix).
A whitewater kayak is usually short, anywhere from 8 feet to 11
or 12 feet, and does not have a noticeable keel. If a kayaker
flips over in the water, he can roll the kayak back upright using
his paddle and his hips, which generally beats drowning by a
large margin. If a kayaker can't roll, he can always do a "wet
exit", and get out of the boat.
There are many specific subtypes of whitewater kayak design,
which I discuss below.
5.1.1) Creek Boats
A creek boat is a kayak designed for descending steep, narrow,
obstruction-ridden creeks. Creek boats are shorter, to reduce
the chances of pinning. They also have rounded ends to avoid
spearing the end of the boat into something that will hold the
boat, because in a steep creek it can be very hard to avoid
obstacles.
5.1.2) Play Boats
These days, there are more play boats than you can shake a
stick at. Some are designed to surf well, some to spin on waves,
some to make repeated rotations in a hole easier. This variety
makes it hard to describe them easily -- the hull shape, the bow
and stern volume, everything can be modified to change the
capabilities with surfing in mind. The only common denominator
is that they are generally designed for serious
get-down-and-dirty FUN, that's F-U-N.
5.1.3) Squirt Boats
A squirt boat is a kayak or a C1 (see 5.2.1) that has low volume
(volume is the amount of space a boat takes up if submerged; the
more volume, the more buoyant) and is generally very thin from
top to bottom. The low volume allows the paddler to force one
end or the other under water, which allows the water to spin the
boat or cause other neat vertical effects. A squirt kayak is
often recognized by the leg-shaped bulges that stick out of the
front deck! Squirt boats can also do "mystery moves," which
refers to a move done with the boat fully submerged.
5.1.4) Tandem Kayaks
Almost all whitewater kayaks hold only one person. There are at
least two whitewater kayaks designed for two paddlers, the
Topolino Duo from Prijon and the Nyami Nyami by Slate River
Kayaks. Double the challenge, double the fun! Much harder to
roll upright than a single kayak, because the two paddlers need
to roll in unison.
5.1.5) Inflatable Kayaks
Two long pontoons forming a banana shape with a seat in the
middle for the paddler. The paddler is not enclosed, but may be
strapped in to some extent, and must use a longer paddle to reach
the water. Less threatening to people who feel they will get
stuck inside a kayak, more buoyant, and more stable.
5.1.6) Sit-On-Top Kayaks
A sit-on-top is a kayak without a cockpit, having instead an
indentation along the top where the paddler sits and puts his
legs. Also uses straps to hold the paddler in, and also requires
a longer paddle because the paddler is higher up off the bottom
of the boat. Pretty much the same advantages as an inflatable.
5.2) Canoes
The difference between a canoe and a kayak is the seat and
the paddle. A canoe paddler sits on his knees with his ankles
underneath his butt, rather than on his butt with his legs
stretched out in front of him. A canoe paddle is single bladed,
rather than double bladed.
5.2.1) C1 (1-person closed canoe)
A C1 is rather like a kayak -- a closed boat with a cockpit
in the middle. The difference is that the paddler kneels rather
than sits, and uses a single bladed paddle rather than a
double. A C1 paddler often uses straps that stretch over the
thighs to help hold them in the boat. A C1 paddler also uses
a skirt to keep water out of the boat. A C1 paddler can also
roll their boat when it flips.
5.2.2) OC1 (1-person open canoe)
An OC1 is a regular open canoe which seats one person near
the middle of the boat. The extra space in an open whitewater
canoe is often filled with flotation bags, essentially a big bag
of air that keeps water from filling up the boat. The paddler
may use straps over his thighs to help keep him in the boat. An
OC1 can be rolled, but not as easily as a kayak or a C1.
5.2.3) OC2 or Tandem Canoe (2-person open canoe)
An OC2 is a regular open canoe which seats two people. A
whitewater OC2 will also use flotation bags and may use thigh
straps. It is very rare to seen an OC2 rolled, and it requires a
great deal of coordination and cooperation for two people to
handle one correctly in whitewater. Often an easy way to start
learning paddling, but it isn't always recommended that you pair
off with your significant other ;>
5.2.4) Inflatable Canoes
Similar to an inflatable kayak, inflatable canoes are paddled from a
sitting or kneeling position. Inflatable canoes hold more cargo than
inflatable kayaks and are used more frequently for extended whitewater
wilderness trips. The versatility of an inflatable canoe allows it to
be paddled with either a single blade (canoe paddle) or double blade
(kayak paddle). The line between inflatable canoes and inflatable
kayaks is very fuzzy in some cases.
5.3) Rafts
Rafts are inflatable craft which are propelled either by
a crew of several people using single-bladed paddles, or by
a single person using a pair of oars. Duckies (inflatable
kayaks or canoes) are usually not considered rafts. Most
non-motorized rafts used in whitewater are between 12 and
18 feet long.
Rafts are much more stable than kayaks and canoes, but generally
less maneuverable. Smaller rafts and catarafts are more
maneuverable than large ones. Rafts have good carrying capacity for
people and gear. They are widely used by commercial outfitters,
since they can carry non-paddling passengers and because
one experienced guide can direct a crew of inexperienced paddlers
through moderately difficult rapids without many problems.
However, non-commercial river runners also use rafts.
Most rafts these days are self-bailing, which means that
the floor is inflatable and separated from the tubes by a
lacing which allows the water to drain out (and splash in!).
Older and less expensive rafts have solid floors which
hold water and require bailing.
5.3.1) Paddle rafts
Paddle rafts usually have no frame. They are propelled by
a crew of several people (usually 4-8) under the direction
of a captain. They are usually more maneuverable than oar
rafts.
5.3.2) Oar rafts
Oar rafts have a frame of wood or metal which sits on top
of the tubes. The frame usually has wooden floor sections
as well, so oar rafts can easily carry more gear than non-
frame rafts. The frame holds oar locks for the oars, which
are usually 9-14 feet long (depending on raft size). The
oars are operated by a single person, but passengers can
ride on the raft as well. This type of boat is used by
outfitters for luggage, and also more frequently used by
private river runners than paddle rafts since only one person
is required to operate the boat. Rowing a large oar raft
takes either a lot of muscle or a good ability to read the
river, because a heavy boat carries a lot of momentum.
5.3.2) Catarafts
Catarafts are usually made of two inflatable pontoons with
a frame holding them together. (Some "catacanoes" are made
of two sit-on-top canoes with a frame! They are operated by
two paddlers, one on each canoe.) Catarafts are generally
oar rigs, with the boatman's seat in the middle, on the frame.
Because they are much lighter and have less drag in the water,
they are much more maneuverable than a "regular" raft of the
same size -- but they also have less gear and passenger capacity.
6) What other equipment is necessary or useful?
It takes more than a boat to make a paddler. A paddle, for
instance. But for safety and comfort, the following items are
found in a whitewater paddlers closet.
6.1) Clothing/[Wet/Dry]Suits
A wetsuit is an outfit made of neoprene rubber, usually faced
with nylon. Paddling wetsuits are generally 2-5 mm thick, as
opposed diving wetsuits, which (I believe) go up to 8 mm. A
wetsuit works by a) being a layer of insulation, and b) by
trapping a thin layer of water between your body and the wetsuit.
This thin layer of water is easily warmed by your body and serves
to help keep you warm.
A drysuit is a waterproof nylon outfit, loosely fitting, with
latex rubber gaskets at the neck, wrists and ankles, and has a
waterproof zipper. It is worn over standard insulative clothing
(polypropylene, PolarTec (tm), wool, other piles, etc.) and keeps
the water out. A drysuit is generally the warmest option. Some
drysuits are made out of Gore-Tex (tm), which theoretically
allows your sweat vapor to escape without letting water in (I've
never tried one, and have heard mixed reviews). When you get out
of a drysuit at the end of the day, it is sopping wet with your
sweat, but it still keeps you warm.
Gore-Tex drysuits need to be cleaned often because the salts in
sweat clog the pores of the material. Also, Gore-Tex can be
revitalized by ironing, but the details of how to do this vary
from account to account.
Dry tops (just the shirt part) and dry bottoms (just the pants)
are available as well. Getting a two-piece suit is slightly less
dry (more gaskets to worry about) in some cases, but is much more
versatile as far as how warm you need to be.
Dry booties are latex socks that can be glued onto the ankle of a
drysuit to keep your feet dry as well. Wetsuit booties are
boots made out of neoprene, which can be worn over dry booties
for protection or alone to replace shoes.
Neoprene gloves are available to keep your hands warm, as are
Pogies. A Pogie is like a mitten that your hand fits into and
which fits over the paddle shaft, so you can hold the paddle but
still be protected from the elements.
I've found that wearing a thin cap under your helmet makes
cold water paddling that much less painful. Such caps are found
in almost any paddling store, but if possible try it on under
your helmet, and see what it does to the fit.
What you need, when, is a matter of personal choice as much as
mathematics. I think I have poor circulation, because I get cold
and numb very easily when paddling, so I almost always wear a
drysuit. I know others who prefer a wetsuit in anything but
water with ice floating in it. YMMV.
6.2) Flotation
A type III or V Coast Guard approved PFD (Personal Flotation
Device) is required in the US. (YMMV by country). This is a
vest type jacket, NOT a horseshoe type. Whatever the law
requires, it's just plain smart to wear one. Swimming in
whitewater is harder than in normal water; the body is less
buoyant in aerated water. Whitewater offers plenty of
opportunities for confusion or unconsciousness which can make a
life jacket the difference between life and death. Get one, wear
one, and practice jumping in with one, so you know how it works.
6.3) Helmet
There are lots of rocks in whitewater rivers, and kayakers in
particular can be dragged downstream with their head bouncing off
the bottom. I've smacked my helmet into a rock three or four
times -- didn't feel like much, but I shudder to think of what it
would have felt like without the helmet. A helmet should be
considered a firm requirement for whitewater.
There are whitewater helmets made specifically for paddling,
where low-speed impacts are more likely than high-speed.
Protec (tm) is probably the most common. Put it on, strap it
on, wear it out.
6.4) Insulation/Clothing
To reiterate earlier points, cold is a danger with
whitewater. Wear clothing that keeps some insulation value when
wet (wool, pile, PolarTec (tm), polypropylene) and avoid cotton,
which has no insulation value when wet. If there is room,
carrying a dry bag with dry clothes in it is a good idea.
6.5) Throw Rope
50 feet or so of buoyant rope, carried in a pouch. The
purpose of a throw rope is to throw to people who are swimming;
they grab on, the thrower digs in, and the current pushes them to
the side of the river rather than carrying them downstream. This
helps get people out of the cold water faster and before they hit
anything else nasty.
You should never tie a rope to yourself in whitewater, and if you
attach rope to your boat you should have a way of releasing it
quickly. If the rope gets caught on a rock a submerged tree, you
can be pulled underwater by it. This goes for the person
throwing a throw rope as well as catching it -- I've been pulled
into the water by someone I tossed a throw rope to before (see
the point about digging in above).
There are some situations where attaching oneself to a rope is
called for, but only with some form of quick-release and
preferably by someone trained in whitewater rescue.
6.6) Knife
Many paddlers carry a short, possibly serrated "rescue knife."
The purpose of this knife is to cut through anything which grabs
you and can hold you underwater, like a throw rope that tangles
around your leg, or a small tree branch. The profusion of rescue
knives, compared to the number of whistles or other safety
equipment carried, is a statistical anomaly that can only be
attributed to the appeal of knives to the kid in all of us.
There has recently been much discussion about knives on the newsgroup;
points to consider are sharp tipped versus rounded tipped knives,
single sided versus double sided, serrated versus non-serrated. It is
impossible to summarize the volume of conclusions that were reached; I
suggest a dejanews search for "knife or knives or cut" for October and
November of 1997. One good point, though, is that if you carry a
knife, you should have tested its abilities (make sure it can cut rope
quickly) and be a little familiar with its use.
6.7) Whistle
Many paddlers carry a whistle. Because bubbly whitewater
creates a lot of background noise, it can be very hard to get
someone's attention; a whistle will be more easily heard.
Whistles can be used to alert bystanders of a swimmer, to warn
upstream boaters that you've wandered into something they
shouldn't or anywhere that you need to get everyone's attention
to avoid or handle an emergency.
7) What about... (actual FAQs)
Some actual Frequently Asked Questions, as opposed to a
huge old primer ;>
7.1) Contacts Lenses
Very few paddlers have perfect vision, and glasses fog up
when a hot paddler takes a dip in cold water. Every few months
someone will post to r.b.p. asking about wearing contacts in
whitewater. The general consensus is that they are okay to wear,
although disposables may be wiser than regular contacts. I
normally wear glasses but have a supply of AccuVue (tm) 1-day
disposables for paddling, and it makes a world of difference. I
lost one while swimming in a pool with my eyes open, and have
gotten them jammed up under my eyelid twice (once after getting
thoroughly trashed in a hole, once when practicing squirting and
rolling). Both times I was able to remove them, and could
reinsert them.
There are rumored to be 'sport' contacts with larger lenses
that stay in better. Details or references appreciated.
A couple of notes of caution -- I've heard soft lenses are better
than hard lenses, and I don't remember why that is. Also, they
say you should wait 1/2 an hour after getting out of the water
before removing lenses, the theory being that water in your eyes
replaces your natural saline lubricant, and can cause the lens to
stick to your eye, causing damage when the lens is removed.
Waiting 30 minutes gives your eyes time to replenish the saline.
7.2) Nose clips
Whitewater paddlers end up in the water a lot. Kayakers in
particular spend a lot of time underwater attached to their boat,
waiting to roll back up. Some people find it easy to keep water
out of their nose, and some find it very hard. Nose clips are
used to avoid the discomfort of having water up your nasal
passages.
Most nose clips are rubber circles on a U shaped metal spring.
The spring presses the circles into the sides of your nose,
clamping the nostrils shut. I've also seen some that are simple
U shapes that clamp from underneath the nose.
Though nose clips are very useful, paddlers should be careful not
to depend too much on them, because they can be knocked off at
the most inopportune time. Practice rolling without nose clips
so that you can still roll when they fail you.
7.3) On-side versus Off-side roll
A roll, as briefly mentioned before, is how a boater can right their boat using their paddle and their hips. The terms "On-side" and "Off-side" are sometimes used to describe a roll. There are two schools of thought on what these terms mean.
A quick primer: A kayaker rolls by stretching the paddle alongside the kayak and toward the bow on one end, then swings out the bow end of the paddle and hipsnaps to right the boat. With a kayak paddle, one hand grips the paddle and twists it, the other allows it to slip as it is twisted. They are called the control hand and the slip hand.
One school of thought holds that an on-side roll is a roll in which the control hand is up toward the bow, and sweeps out as part of the roll. An off-side roll is one where the slip hand begins near the bow and sweeps out. An off-side roll often requires more dexterity to rotate the paddle correctly before rolling, and it is thus usually more difficult than an on-side roll.
The second school of thought holds that the on side is the side with a stronger, more proficient roll. In most cases, this would be the same as the first definition, as the control-hand-forward roll should be a little easier.
I'm an adherent of the first school, because it makes more sense (the second definition becomes meaningless once a paddler becomes skilled enough to have an ambidextrous roll, and it means different things to different people, because it is subjective).
On-side and off-side have more easily determined meanings with a canoe paddle -- the off-side requires you to reach across your body with the blade, and the on-side doesn't. Since there's only one blade, there is less confusion.
In any case, any paddler should strive to have an ambidextrous
roll, because you can't always pick and choose which side you
need to roll on!
7.4) Where can I find info to learn how to roll?
There is a reputedly excellent video called "Grace Under Pressure"
An excellent book:
_The Bombproof Roll and Beyond_ by Paul Dutky
Published by Menasha Ridge Press, March 1997
ISBN 0897320859
See http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ISBN%3D0897320859/
There is a good online primer at
http://www.bristol.digitalcity.org/org/sports/canoe/kayakrol/rolling.htm
7.5) Why do some people call a Kayak a Canoe?
From SJesson(at)aol.com:
"As a side note, in the UK and elsewhere that English rather than
American English is spoken, 'canoe' is used as a general term to
include all watercraft propelled with a paddle which is not
attached to the boat (so does not include rowing boats where the
oars are attached to the hull via the rowlocks).
"We often use the terms 'kayak' and 'Canadian canoe' to
distinguish between what others call kayaks and canoes,
respectively.
"However, we (ie the BCU) are trying to encourage the use of the
international terms. This may be successful within the sport but
the old definitions will still hold for the man in the street and
raw beginners, to whom they will all be 'canoes'."
7.6) What is boat outfitting? How do I do it?
Boat outfitting refers to adding or removing padding to your boat
so that you fit correctly. A correct boat fit allows the paddler to
properly control the boat with their body (not too loose...) without
making it dangerously hard to get out of the boat when it comes time
to swim (not too tight...). Most outfitting involves tightening up
the fit.
Outfitting generally involves a block of closed-cell foam, a knife,
heavy sandpaper or sharkskin, adhesive, and patience. Shape the
piece you think will help, try it out, and then adjust it. When
it feels great, glue it in.
There's also much more complex outfitting (like adding seats to an
open canoe, playing with straps, etc. etc.) There's probably room for
a whole other FAQ on making your boat fit right.
7.7) Which boat should I buy? This question comes up a lot, and the only good answer is -- try some and find out. A variant is the "Which boat is better, X, Y, or Z?" Each boat has strengths and weaknesses, and two people rarely get the same experience out of the same boat. Until you've paddled a boat, you can't know whether you like it, regardless of the neat moves everyone and the manufacturer say it'll do. Use the claims and the reputations of a boat to put it on your "to try" list, not your "must buy" list. Having said that, it isn't always easy to find and try boats. Many boaters are touchy about complete strangers asking to try their boats. Here are some options:
--> Find a whitewater outfitter that has demo boats
--> Many whitewater clubs have rental boats, and if you paddle with people regularly they're more likely to let you try their boat.
--> Many manufacturers bring demo boats to whitewater festivals and popular dam releases -- why not call them and ask if they have a schedule?
--> Check the manufacturers web page; they might be helpful
7.8) How can I ship a boat cheaply?
Trucking companies like Consolidated Freight, Roadway, Yellow
Freight System, etc. have shipped boats for <$100. Others have
reported quotes of $130 to $400, though. It helps if it is being
dropped off at the carrier or at a normal carrier stop, and picked up
at the carrier or at a normal carrier stop. Your best bet is to call
around and ask what you can do that would lower the price (packaging,
drop-off, pick-up).
Rumor has it that shipping by train in Canada is cheaper ($35), but I
doubt AmTrak can match that.
7.9) Can I fly with my kayak?
Delta is reported to have checked a kayak for $50 extra. American
reportedly flew a boat from Philly to Honduras for $90 round trip, but
this was set up by going to the airport and talking to someone in
baggage handling, rather than at the reservation/1-800 level. Some
posts suggest that calling a spade a spade (or, a boat a boat) is more
trouble than good; airlines may prefer to ship a "10'x1.5'x1' box
weighing 60 pounds" than they would a "kayak". Stories abound that
calling it a "Surf Ski" or a "Windsurfboard" will make it more
palatable to airline folks.
7.10) Where can I find river levels online?
http://water.usgs.gov/public/realtime.html
Jump from here to state USGS sites for the US
http://www.ned.usace.army.mil/waterres/htdocs/index.html
US Army Corps of Engineers, New England Division
http://www.ruhrverband.de/spleitw/SPEINZUG.HTM
River information site in German
http://www.fnoc.navy.mil/wam.html
(Ocean) Wave height predictions for the entire world
http://www.waterland.net/rikz/golfhoogte/index.html
Wave buoys in the Netherlands
Always looking for more; if not in english, please provide a
short description 'cause I'm a terrible monoglot.
7.11) What is 303, and can I use Armorall instead?
303 Protectant is a liquid that is used to protect rubber from UV and other damaging effects. Used regularly on drysuit gaskets, it can prolong their life greatly. It can also be used on other equipment (life jackets, spray skirts, boats) but beware, as it does make whatever it is applied to very slippery. 303 has a web site at http://www.303-products.com/. The common question "does anyone know a mail order source for 303" is usually answered with "NRS!", at http://www.nrsweb.com/.
Armorall, which does pretty much the same thing, is believed to be
more damaging to equipment, especially latex. The general
consensus of the group is that this is because Armorall contains
silicone, and 303 doesn't, but no one knows for sure.
7.12) Who has right of way? River and Ocean surfing etiquette
River Etiquette -- this question is usually asked in the context of "I was paddling downstream and this surf dog wouldn't get out of my way...." The general consensus is that people playing should yield to people running downriver, but that people running downriver should try to pick lines that don't interrupt someone's surf if possible. Seems straightforward, but then you add in newbies (unable to avoid surfers) and rafts ('nuff said) and tempers usually start rising. Suffice it to say, its a messy topic.
Ocean Surfing Etiquette -- this question is usually asked because
someone went surfing in a Kayak and got in a head-to-head with a
board surfer. Board surfers, unlike Kayakers, figured out a long time
ago that the beaches were too crowded not to have some solid rules of
etiquette. They get naturally upset when kayakers barge in without
a clue. Here's some good sites to learn about the Surfing Rules of
Etiquette:
http://members.aol.com/Kayaksrfrs/main.html
http://www.island.net/~surfer/learn.htm (see "The Rules" section)
7.13) Where do I keep my beer/wine/liquor?
Either in the shuttle vehicle or the campground, with due attention
paid to campground/park service/whoever rules.
Drinking impairs judgement. Paddling requires good judgement.
Lots of paddlers drink; safe paddlers don't drink before or on the
river.
8) Questions pertaining to rec.boats.paddle... These questions pertain more to the Usenet newsgroup rec.boats.paddle than they do paddling in general... 8.1) Is r.b.p. only a whitewater group? No; as the name suggests, it is for any sort of boat that is powered by paddle. Flatwater canoeists and kayakers and sea kayakers also frequent the group, although they aren't quite as loud and obnoxious as some of us river rats... 8.2) Are commercial posts okay? [I can't find the newsgroup charter... anyone have a pointer?] If it isn't related to paddling, it definitely isn't. Most readers tend not to mind one-time or very occasional posts that have a reasonably high information content and are related to paddling. Posts with more hype than info tend to get trashed ;> 8.3) Are binary posts okay? [I can't find the newsgroup charter... anyone have a pointer?] Not really. They usually cause a storm of protest. There was some talk of creating an alt group for paddle binaries, but I haven't seen it at my feed yet. 8.4) What's the deal with sponsons? Sponsons, or water wings, are inflatable pontoons designed to be attached to the sides of a kayak for the purposes of stability. They were briefly notorious in r.b.p. because their inventor and salesman began hawking them in a very intrusive manner. He seems to have gone away now. In my opinion, if you want a sponson, buy a raft. If you want a whitewater kayak which to boat, play and roll in, then sponsons are an irrelevant curiosity. Just my opinion, of course. 8.5) Who is this Scott Weiser guy? Scott Weiser is a Colorado landowner who hangs out on r.b.p. and discusses waterway navigation rights, often from a landowner's point of view. He is very knowledgeable of the law (though not, so far as I know, a lawyer) and a skilled debater. His persistence annoys some readers -- if it bothers you, just don't read his posts. 8.6) I missed the post on... If you missed the opening post in a thread that interests you, or if you have a question that isn't answered by this FAQ, there is an easy place to look before asking the newsgroup: DejaNews. www.dejanews.com is a web site which archives almost all of Usenet. I recommend using the Search Filter to narrow it down to the newsgroup and then search (note, you can search on subject lines using the filter). This cuts down on the number of repeat questions and helps you find a wealth of information instantly. 8.7) Yes, but WHICH 'Black River...' r.b.p is an international group, but too often rivers are described in local terms. There are two problems: firstly, people often refer to a river without realizing that there is a river by that name in 16 states, 2 canadian provinces, and 9 countries worldwide. Secondly, not everyone reading r.b.p got the 50 US state abbreviations drilled into them by their 5th grade teacher. To be polite, it is nice to say "the Black River in upstate New York (USA)" rather than "the Black River" 8.8) What is this rec.boats.kayak newsgroup/How about splitting the group? Every now and then, someone notices this neat group "rec.boats.kayak" on their news server and wonders why we bother posting on r.b.p and mingling with open boaters. The answer is, it isn't a real group; it did not pass an RFD and CFV process and was created with a forged news control message. It doesn't show up on most servers, you can't really use it as a newsgroup. If we wanted to create a rec.boats.kayak newsgroup, there is a specific process of RFD (Request For Discussion) and CFV (Call For Votes) which must be undergone before the group can be created. There has always been and probably always will be people clamoring for a group split (i.e., form rec.boats.paddle.whitewater and rec.boats.paddle.flatwater) because there are so many messages. All the interested people in the world don't mean spit if no one initiates and drives a RFD/CFV process; that's the only way to create a group in the rec.* hierarchy. Even then, its questionable that a group split would pass the required vote. For more information on how newsgroups work and how newsgroup creation works, see the following URLs: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/usenet/creating-newsgroups/part1/ http://www.faqs.org/usenet/ http://www.uvv.org/uvv.html There's a lot of sound and fury on this topic, but it signifies nothing because no one ever takes it beyond the talking phase. 8.9) What other FAQs are available? Sea Kayaking FAQ: http://www.gasp-seakayak.org/faq/credits.html Older rec.boats.paddle FAQ: http://www.siolib-155.ucsd.edu/preston/kayak/faq/toc.html Surf Paddling FAQ: http://ssnet.com/~bef/SurfFAQ.shtml This article is a Frequently Asked Questions (and Answers) document for Whitewater Paddling, and pertains especially to the rec.boats.paddle newsgroup. This FAQ is currently maintained by Greg Owen, gowen(at)cs.tufts.edu and gowen(at)xis.xerox.com. I'm annoyingly using (at) instead of @ so none of the kind folks who get thanked for contributing get SPAMmed because of me. Contributions and corrections welcome! The latest version of this FAQ can be found on the web at http://www.eecs.tufts.edu/~gowen/White_Water_Paddling_FAQ.txt