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on May 10 and 11 to do these things.
But they can be done before then or
started before then. You should think that if your project will conflict or
upset another project or worker and figure out who goes first.
#1, Wash down
of everything inside the boat after all the repairs are finished.
#2 Remove all junk
before all the repairs begin and after too.
#3 New SeaCock closing system for the Head. 
This will
entail securing 2 slider cables from a larger lever to locate within reach of
the toilet and run the cables to each of the valves handles so that they can be
both opened and closed with one movement of that new main lever. No more
reaching into the forepeak locker to just use the head. And , by the way, we cannot use the head anyway,
unless we are located directly over the Victoria City raw sewage outflow But we would like it to work better
anyway. It is up to the skipper -
you poop you pay the fine - not the club.
# 4 Make a new Main Hatchway Door
This means you decide if it will be
Plexiglass, Lucite or wood or a combination. It needs to be pretty and functional. Follow the same
pattern of 2 parts. You can use
the present ones and just clean them up if nothing else/ ( do not leave the
doorway open and unguarded while
you take the parts off to the shop. ) Plan to install the same or a better lock
system. It must resist tampering and be able to latch closed for those trips
where the waves wash over the cabin roof.
OR at least sand and paint the old one and the frame, and add a protective nylon slider strip to the Hatchway Slider edges. They are almost worn out from sliding along the cabin roof.
# 5 Install the
support-open bar on the fore hatch. 
You will
need 4 small stainless steel nuts and bolts. They should be no longer than
necessary. Use the holes you see there. Re-drill as necessary and seal against
water. Ensure safety that no one will be injured by scraping on the bolts.
# 6 A better Curtain for Fore Peak area.
Using the Head or sleeping can be a stage scene with the
present curtain. It can be improved.
Perhaps a new style. Heavier. One that is easy to use, will not get in
the way of normal sail bag / pillow crawling while at sail.
# 7 Sand and
paint all wood trim
You need to remove the present hand rail on port side. The
screws are under some nice looking wood plugs, they are slot screws and the
domed nuts are 3/8 s I think. 
The sanding will have to be done by hand
for the most part. On the Hatch slide rails they can be sanded in place.
Protect the deck with heavy Masking tape for the sanding and especially for the
Marine varnish use one that has a UV screen as it is the wood underneath that
dissolves in the sunlight. It
would be nice to have all the woodwork the same color. Seal all screws and
holes on the outside of the deck with , seal with 3Mª White Marine
Adhesive/Sealant 5200, 05203, or
Sikaflex¨-292 as water leaking into the balsa
wood core will destroy the boat.
# 8 Leaking
through deck bolts.
You can locate them by the dark
color on the inside. Really, these should be taken out and the hole examined
for dampness by inserting a twist of Kleenex. Drying out in the sunshine or
with a hair dryer can take days. The moisture is weakening the balsa core and
will collapse the deck under a heavy foot. If it rains during the dry-out you are starting all over
again. What to doÉ.Well we hope it is not really wet and you got it in time so
Seal all screws and holes on the outside of the deck with , seal with 3Mª White
Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200, 05203,
or
Sikaflex¨-292 as water leaking into the balsa
wood core will destroy the boat.
# 9 Toe Rails: Scrape Clean & Re-seal
See our
Library Page http://discoverysailing.org/faqsj24one.html
Well the
Starboard side was stripped clean and resealed 2 years ago and it does not leak
anymore. But the Port rail 
needs be done. The old stuff needs be shaved, pealed
scraped carefully or solvent off without damaging the deck or rail.
For the new bead , seal with 3Mª White Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200, 05203, or Sikaflex¨-292 applied to the clean surface. Do both sides of the rail , Deck and Hull as some sailors bury the railing on a beam reach. It should not be necessary to remove the railing. You will be there all week if you do that. . . Seal all screws and holes on the outside of the deck with , seal with 3Mª White Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200, 05203, or
Sikaflex¨-292 as water leaking into the balsa
wood core will destroy the boat.
# 10 Install new wood blocks
under the bow fairleads. Sand seal
the screws and ensure they will be
strong enough to hold the lines anchors and such. . Seal all screws and holes
on the outside of the deck with , seal with 3Mª White Marine Adhesive/Sealant
5200, 05203, or
Sikaflex¨-292 as water leaking into the balsa
wood core will destroy the boat.
Make a
rule about Dogs
being allowed on the craft. Yes / No how / when / whom
Rules about
clean up after a voyage. Post them in some effective place or in the offenderÕs
head.
Possible new interior carpet.
This would
be used to getting wet, never slip or slide or rot. Be the right color and size. On maybe it is not needed.
Dining
Room Table :
it should have the leg hinge
checked, might need screws epoxy in place. The wall clips tend to allow the
table to flip on a voyage if a hand is leaned on one corner. Possibly a way of keeping the wall side
firmly in place and yet easy to remove to fold down into a bed. < NB DO NOT
DRILL HOLES IN THE WALL FOR THIS PROJECT >
Verify the Sound System is in good order, possibly
check the wire connections and a way of getting the crew to put the extended
speakers and their wires neatly aside. Or perhaps somebody has some high
quality old mini-speakers of some computer game or bookshelf to contribute. 
Glue Sticky Mat on the sides so they will stay where they are
put. Check the ones on the Dining Table too as they may need replacing or
upgrading. The stereo had been missing one channel occasionally which might
lead to a transistor burnout. Or perhaps someone has a hot 12 volt stereo / CD/
Tape player that lets an MP3 player be plugged in. Figure out where any CDÕs
tapes or spare batteries can live. (oh and verify the VHF to )
New tool kit and parts box .
This means
that we need to verify that we have the tools on board that we need for
standard and emergency maintenance. But not a variety of play tools and
deadweights. Likewise the ÒBosins Bits BoxÓ needs the spare shackles, blocks
and bolts verified for back-up parts while out to sea. Ensure each has a
working box, clean to be in and place where all agree it can live.
New dishes and stove. and small electric Kettle.
Toss all the old dishes silverware and
stuff. .
Get nice ones. (Not a donation from a cottage which was a
donation from a kitchen in the 50Õs ) Supply what will be needed to make a pot
of tea / coffee and serve lunch while on voyage, or on deck.
Add sticky Mat patches to use on
deck.
The
electric Kettle should be small 3 cup size and be of Stainless steel or plastic
I suppose. It can be used while in reach of any dock power and will save your
butane gas.
The Stove will be one of those Chinese Butane
single burner for Hot Pot on the table.
They are usually red and are idiot proof. The Butane in cans clip into
the stove and shut down and disconnect when the stove is turned off. Very Safe.
The gas cans come in 4 packs is cheap and lasts long and people can buy their
own, It has a self-lighting system and good burner control. Comes in a black
plastic case of convenient size. See any Chinese Grocery store.
Organize basic supplies, lines and spare gas.
This job
ensures that the various lines are set up for storage in a way that they can be
accessed immediately for the particular job at hand. How many spare gas cans,
where do they go and what safe provision is made for clipping onto a fuel line
or for transferring fuel while at sea?
Ken has the original flat metal one but it would need a Honda Fuel Clip
installed. All gasoline must have stabilizer added to each tank as modern
gas not only contains water
attracting Alcohol BioFuel it will separate into layers in 6 weeks with the
bottom layer being black tar. Tar that clogs up the engine carburetor in 3
minutes. Are the fuel lines fed in safe passage and sealed properly ?
Update Chart Library and the records book
This means
that our library of charts is in a mess. While they are out of date, they still
show the rocks around Bowen Island and the gulf islands.
The new
Navman is what will be used, but for planning a voyage or talking over
alternatives the chart on the table is the way to go.
Clean up the wires
This means
that the groups of wires leading from the battery to switch panel and off to
the users need be protected and be made pretty but not be a visual feature.
Do not
drill or screw through the hull or deck.
You may
epoxy on some wood blocks to put screws into. Do not disconnect them or cut and tie them back up as all
connections are to be soldered and shrink wrap sealed.
Wires should not get caught in the
baggage bottles paddles BBQ ladders or be at risk of being torn out while
fumbling on a voyage.
And 12 volt wire that is not marine grade water and oil proof
may have to be replacedÉ.ohh thatÕs a lot of work.. Figure a safe way to clip /
glue / encase these things as they presently wander everywhere and have left ugly bits of tape residue
on the nice cabin walls.
How to
clean that off Ð assign someone who is happy to snort solvent and loves
scrubbing.
It is
discharged. Not working. New one required. It needs to be set up so it is
accessable yet will not be triggered by stepping through the hatchway.
New
Water Storage system
Yep the big
funny looking bladder in the forepeak leaks, and it is probably a funny color
or texture inside. It fills very nicely from the deck intake, and feeds the
water out into a nice little electric pump under the bladder. 
The tap at the sink should work by pump action or be replaced
it should allow the pump to flow when the pump switch above the sink it tapped
on.
It has been a good system until the bladder fed the water
into the bilge. ( what about a bilge pump anyway ? would one be useful in a
storm or if a rock swam out and hit us ? ) A new water storage container needs
be easy to fill the same way and
be hidden and possible to clean or real easy & cheap to replace.
Possible arrangement for super wash and / or painting.
This means
that the Gel Coat is worn out. Those black splotches might not be dirt, but the
under layer. Find out. Perhaps you can recommend a full deck paint job with
something like ÒAwlGripÓ done in a very professional manner. There is a red j24
over under the bridge 6 spots from the ramp you can see how nice it looks. Then
look over at the blue one with the bad paint job. Do your web research and talk
to the experts. Can we do it or will it make a permanent mess ?
The insurance might just pay for the Hull Painting in
Yellow, but this needs be done on land, and you have to take a lot of time to
get Crawford insurance to fork over the money. It may be possible and it sure
would look nice.
New Air Vent
That is the
one near the mast above the cupboard. It was the wrong size, it may leak into
the Balsa Core and it has a margarine tub for the outside L
Buy new, cut to size, seal with 3Mª
White Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200, 05203, or Sikaflex¨-292
Possible
Anchor mounted on
the Bow with Chain in Fore 
Locker.
This is a rewarding job but it has
gotta be done right. There is no room. A lose anchor can destroy the deck. Possible solution is to keep the chain
and rode in the locker (Hawse Pipes. Tubes leading the anchor chain from the deck on which
the windlass is located down and forward through the vesselÕs bow plating.) 
and clip on the anchor as it is
brought forward. But the safety of
having an anchor ready to drop if all else fails it real nice. So look around
at other boats with no room and see how they do it. . Seal all screws and holes
on the outside of the deck with , seal with 3Mª White Marine Adhesive/Sealant
5200, 05203, or
Sikaflex¨-292 as water leaking into the balsa
wood core will destroy the boat.
Fix the cupboards and drawers so they slide open.
It may be
they need a sanding or a wash and scrub. It may be the woodwork is warped or
the latches are in need of oil. The result is they stay closed on voyage and
easy to open at dinner lunch and teatime.
The
Head.
Yep, does it work or does it leak ? It
was replaced new 3 years ago, as it was cheaper than a rebuild kit. Should be
fine. Do your crewmembers know that if you leave the seacocks open, and the wet
bowl switch on, that the sea flows quietly in and over the edge of the bowl and it
fills the bilge and sinks , all while you sleep ? Oh yes, I forgot we are not
allowed to flush except when over the City of Victoria raw sewage outflow....
Instruction sheets
See the
Job:- Chart and Records book -
Update,
print, protect the instruction sheets and repost them after the repairs and
cleaners are all gone. Probably heavy clear coat spray treatment out in the
wind and use a 3M spray on adhesive to get them posted in the places where crew
will have a need to know now.
Lube the Sail Tracks and traveler.
The mast slot and the sliders need run smoothly but not be covered in grease, Find out what to use.
Furling
Jib System
Possible install of a Furling Jib System if one is located. Hey if you can find
a donation of one from a larger boat that we can adapt and then get the
foresails re-stitched with a rope
guide and a UV strip installed. Wow that would be nice and just save us solo
sailors from scrambling across slippery decks.
Simplify the Sails,
their
storage and the Life raft storage. Where is the best place for them. How do you
get all Skippers to stow them with the 3 points attached at the top of the bag.
New life ring or rescue collar
We need
this. Find the funds buy one that works and will not get stolen like the last
one, ensure skippers know how to use it.
Possible Bosons chair
or other rescue
lift method , We buy it at West or Steveston and put someone in it and hoist
them up the mast for fun and entertainment, or to fix the lights and antenna.
but it is not very good for hoisting people out of the water.
Better Cockpit drain plug system.
The SJ24 website has several ideas for
allowing the cockpit drains to let water out but not in. Our present system of
pounding the wooden pegs into the drains is going to break something and if you
forget to put them in you sure get clean feet by the time you motor out to the
channel. One guy installed bicycle
inner tubes on rings fitted into the drain holes and let the long tube hang
down. The water went out and the tube folded up as water pushed in. Another guy
had floating flap valves on the outside.
Wash the
Sail cover
By hand or
in the machine, & locate a lightweight cover tarp for summer that doubles
as a sun shade or rain shelter on trips. Install lines and grommets as
necessary. Use a system similar to the - Button & Loop fastening - on the present
one.
An Auto-Tiller
Usually I
can repair them, if there is one
you come across ask Ken. It can be
installed on the SJ24, especially
if it is the smaller size. Simrad, AutoHelm, Raymarine,
Upholstry and pillows
Check them. Possibly they are to be
cleaned and stitched.
Possible new switch panel and charging system but this is usually Ken's specialty
work and takes a day or two. The present system is OK.
Play on the Walker Bay.
That means Test and run the 2 hp Honda motor in water only
and on the Walker Bay that you have cleaned scraped and scrubbed. If the motor
has old gas that is decomposed into tar it will clog up the carburetor. Use
only gas that has had stabilizer added or fresh gas that is less than 6 weeks old.
And put
the motor back in the hold 
and
the Walker bay on the float with a new Combo lock and write the combo in the
log book.
Bottom Kote :
Actually this is good as we think there is only a little moss on it. So the bottom of the hull does not have to be painted this year, just a possible moss dusting. ( yea ) Anyone want to go swimming?
http://titanic-model.com/glossary/main.shtml